Forty-niners in the Valley
Norman Rozeff, December 2007

It led to the largest migration in US history. It led to the admission of California into the Union in September 9,1850, only a short period after this Mexico territory was transferred to the United States by the Treaty of Guadeloupe Hidalgo in February 1848. It led to San Francisco growing from a small backwater settlement into a full-blown city. It changed the direction of our nation. It was the discovery of gold at Sutter's mill in Coloma, east of Sacramento, on January 24, 1848.

Subsequent overblown, exaggerated newspaper publicity fueled the gold rush. The first major East Coast paper to do so was the New York Herald of August 19,1848. When expansionist-minded President James Polk mentioned it in his speech to Congress on December 5, 1848, he put the imprint of veracity on it. He stated " The accounts of the abundance of gold in that territory are of such extraordinary character as would scarcely command belief were they not corroborated by authentic reports of officers in public service."

The number of individuals who traveled to California over the next few years ranges up to 300,000, about half to two-thirds of them being American. In 1849 alone 85,000 migrated to the territory, 40,000 by ship, 15,000 via Mexico, and 30,000 on trails across the continent. This latter route entailed a journey of at least 2,200 mile west from Independence or St. Joseph, Missouri. The first major trek from Missouri began in May 1849.

From the East Coast a sea voyage around Cape Horn at the southern tip of South America could take up to eight months and cost between $600 and $1,200 depending on accommodations. A shorter route was to voyage to the east coast of the Panama Isthmus, boat 75 miles up the Chagres River then traverse the 25 jungle miles to Panama City by mules. From here, and often after a considerable delay, it was another ocean crossing, this time to San Francisco or even a port to the south. This journey encompassed five months. In the year 1850 the Panama trip was taken by about 13,800 individuals; the Cape Horn one by 11,700. Passage through Nicaragua was also taken by some.

These and other routes exposed the traveler to myriad diseases. These included dysentery, cholera, typhoid, malaria, yellow fever, and scurvy among others. For the adventurers the loss of life was considerable.

The American overland trails were equally as hazardous. The major ones were the Oregon/California Trail that approached Salt Lake City at one point, a southern offshoot from this leading through Death Valley; the Santa Fe and Old Spanish Trails as approaches to Southern California; and the Gila River route via Santa Fe or El Paso and also leading to Southern California.

It was through Mexico that yet other alternatives were offered. The most popular route here was to journey by sea to Veracruz then go overland to Mexico City, Guadalajara, and on to a west coast Mexico port to catch a ship north to California.

What few Valleyites know is that one of the routes selected by some 49ers was through the Valley, on to Monterrey, Saltillo, Buena Vista, and west across the Sierra Madre Occidental Mountains to the seaport at Mazatlan.

Numerous 49ers kept diaries or later wrote reminiscences of their experiences. One that touches on the Valley itself is the journal maintained by John Woodhouse Audubon, son of the naturalist and artist John James Audubon, and an artist and wildlife collector in his own right. He was born November 30, 1812 in Kentucky. In 1837 at age 25 he had visited Texas with his father for collection purposes and returned to do so alone in 1845-46. [At left is John James Audubon's painting of his son, John Woodhouse Audubon, courtesy of Kentucky Department of Parks.].

With the gold rush gaining momentum, American fortune seekers soon began to organize into companies in order to better attack the many challenges that they would face. Adventurers put up their own funds, and other investors, banking on prospects for good returns, also put up money for the companies. Those that would migrate were mostly formed into military-type groups, since logistics and discipline would be required for a successful venture.

John Woodhouse Audubon joined a company that was financed primarily by his friends of the Kingsland family. This company, organized for mutual defense and assistance, was to be led by Col. Henry L. Webb. He was a veteran of the Mexican American War who had joined the Illinois volunteers and rose to command a regiment. It was his supposed knowledge of Mexico that led the company to take a route through this country. Audubon signed on 1/3/49 and his agreement induced others to follow. He was to be second in command of the organization. He contracted to remain with the party for one year. It would benefit from his extensive "knowledge of a backwoodsman's life" and he would have the flexibility to pursue specimens of birds and mammals and draw from nature. He was 36 years old when he left New York, 2/8/49, for the expedition.

The company supplied everything except personal belongings and a horse. Each man was later to repay the initial expenses through his gold earnings. It embarked with 80 men from New York and joined with others from the Philadelphia area. The total number was about 98. They took with them $27,000 in cash. All the potential prospectors collected at Cairo, Illinois and embarked down the Mississippi River to New Orleans. They took with them, as they were later to find out, poorly made wagons manufactured in Cincinnati. The elapsed time from NY was 10 days. Once in New Orleans the party made important purchases. They ordered horse and mule shoes, bacon, flour, bags, tools, and ammunition. They then boarded the Globe for passage to Brazos Island and the Valley. This 461 ton propeller-driven vessel usually plied between Galveston and Brazos Santiago. Once offshore in South Texas, the first of many problems to plague the company ensued. The weather was uncooperative, and the ship had to stand offshore for four days before it could risk crossing the shallows above the sand bar in Brazos Santiago Passage. Once ashore the party rode their horses to Brownsville, arriving March 8, with only having had a hard-boiled egg for a mid-day repast.

Major Benjamin William Brice commanded Fort Brown at the time. Audubon was not impressed by Brownsville. He noted that many of the houses had been constructed by a Mr. McGown, that they were good, but simple. He reflected on the abundance of drinking houses and billiard parlors. Mentioned were the two ferryboats plying on hawsers between Brownsville and Matamoras and the thriving business of smuggling.

Col. Webb came up the Rio Grande to Brownsville on the small sidewheeler Mentoria, owned by Miflin Kenedy. It had been built in Alabama in 1845 for the US Quartermaster Department. Webb was unhappy when the purchases of a few barrels of rice in town cost him twice the price asked in New Orleans.

The company boarded the Corvette commandeered by Captain O'Daniel. This medium-sized sidewheeler had been built in 1846 and was owned by the US Quartermaster Department. Just north of Brownsville the ship struck and became mired on a bar. This, of course, was not unusual, for the Rio Grande was notorious for its erratic flow levels. Once again underway Audubon recorded that the river was "erratic" and the ranchos along it "forlorn." He was not impressed by the jacals, rank reed growth, scant trees, except for "musquit" and willow though hackberry further back looked better.

The company wanted to go as far as Roma for their start would be across the river at Mier, Mexico. The river waters were low however and the steamboat captain did not want to chance getting hung up on a bar. The company was set ashore on the Mexico side opposite Camp Ringgold at Rio Grande City. The men encountered difficulties in unloading the supplies across the mud and sand adjacent to the solid land. Immediately the shirkers and goldbricks among the company became evident. Temperatures in the high 90s did not help matters.

The company later met with Major Joseph Hatch La Motte, who, like the other soldiers stationed at the camp, lived in a tent. Others at the camp who would befriend the party were Captains McCown and Deas,and Lieutenants Caldwell, Hazzard, and Hayne. Once the party was established, Col. Webb took off for Camargo and then on to China about 50 miles from the Rio Grande on the Rio San Juan. His goal was to purchase mules.

It was on 3/15/49 that J. Booth Lambert became the first fatality of the company. He was a victim of cholera. He was buried at the (Clay) Davis' Rancho about ½ mile above Camp Ringgold. [A short essay answering the question "Who was Clay Davis?" appears after this one.  Click if you'd like to go there, and back, now.]  The company doctor, John B. Trask, contended that in his northern practice he had never seen the likes of the symptoms exhibited here. This disease caused consternation when three more men came down with it. Cholera was spread in water and food through poor sanitation. The waters of the Rio Grande were likely the source of the infection. With the arrival of the steamer Tom McKinney, operated by her master Captain Miller, any who wished to leave for Roma were given the opportunity for the $100 fee Audubon was to pay for all. When the steamboat later came back downstream it carried 18-20 men who now opted to return to New Orleans.

The cause of cholera, a bacterial disease, were not known at the time, so the poor remedies offered by Dr. Campbell, who served at the camp, were largely ineffective. These included the use of calomel lotion, external mustard packs, opium for pain, camphor, and brandy stimulants. These did nothing for the extreme dehydration and loss of bodily minerals and salts that were the cause of death.

Audubon had been entrusted with the company funds and was storing them in his saddle bags. Dr. Campbell's recommended that Audubon place them in the hands of a man named White for safekeeping. White was the barkeeper at the Armstrong Hotel in Rio Grande City. Audubon did so. (At right is Rio Grande City in 1853. Click on it to enlarge.) When Audubon wished to use some of the money a few days later, White claimed that he knew nothing about any money. A magistrate was contacted but did little. When word of this reached the company, the men were incensed and threatened to hang White. After they persisted in pursuing this option, White admitted the thief and promised to recover the money in return for being freed. Once back with him in the bush where the loot was buried, the company found nothing, for White's accomplice, a man named Hughes, had removed it. With the help of Don Francisco, grandfather of Clay Davis's wife and at the time acting sheriff, Hughes was located and apprehended. $3,500 of the $14,500 was recovered at this time and returned to Audubon. Other suspects in the thievery became known, but they had left for Mexico where it would be impossible to bring them to justice.

In the interim 52 members of the company, twenty of whom were too ill to move, had become ill with cholera. A total of ten men of the original company were eventually to die. Party members did not want to associate whatsoever with any sick individuals, but Dr. Kearney of Rio Grande City did so. His extreme devotion to duty during this period led to his death. By this time many had fled to Roma and then across the river to Mier. On March 21 Col. Webb contracted the disease as did Audubon. Both were to survive. Two days later $4,000 more of the stolen funds was returned at Roma. The balance of $7,000 was never found.

Once in Mier, 21 of the company's party agreed to go on, but Audubon was not one of them. Dissenters awaited a steamboat in Rio Grande City to take the party back downstream to Brownsville. It was delayed for whatever reason. Chaffing at the bit the party rejected any further command under Col. Webb. That was just as well for he communicated just then that he was too ill to continue to lead the expedition. In the interim Audubon had been entreated to take the lead of the party. He then consented to do so. By a month later he had put the affairs in order, moved the 20 miles from Camp Ringgold to Mier, and returned a proportionate share of the money and provisions to Webb and the members who would head home. On April 28 a new start was made. Now fifty men all told commenced the arduous, adventurous odyssey west. This group included two cooks, two teamsters, two servants, and some loosely committed to the company.

At Roma the company took the main road to Chihuahua State via Monterrey. At Parras, west of Monterrey, one man accidentally shot himself in the ankle. He left the party with his cousin to return east. The number of travelers at this point had grown to 57 men and 157 mules and horse. It reached the town of Hidalgo de Parral on June 18. Here cholera took another victim. Audubon himself suffered two separate attacks but survived. At Parral the group left any roads. It followed the Conchos River in the Santa Cruz Valley then the Verde River finally taking off across the Sierra Madre Mountains to Sonora Province. [At left is a picture of the Sonoran Desert on the Arizona-Mexico border. At right is "Night Watch," J. W. Audubon's sketch made during the trip and now in the Yale University Library. Click on eithert to enlarge.] Audubon made pencil sketches of some of this terrain. Once on the western slopes, towns and provisions were few and far between. After the town of Altar (about 65 miles southwest of present-day Nogales) was reached on 9/9 they entered a desert before reaching the Gila River and the line of General Stephen Kearny's march through New Mexico to California during the Mexican American War. The desert areas they traversed provided scant food and water for humans as well as the pack mules. It proved to be the most trying passage of the journey. It is the same area where today illegal immigrants in Arizona perish. The passage through the Gila Valley to the Colorado River was also treacherous.

When San Diego was finally reached, eleven embarked by ship to San Francisco. Forty of the company continued the overland trek with the mules and equipment first to Los Angeles then on to Northern California. Naturally by the time of their arrival, most of the productive gold mines and placer areas had been claimed or mostly cleared of their treasures. One unusual footnote is that although this company's venture proved an utter failure, most of those that undertook it repaid the Kingslands. This was even the case for families of five of the men who died on the journey.

Audubon's journal ends abruptly when he apparently receives a communications drawing him home. Audubon was to return home an old, sad, and broken man. He was to die 2/18/1862 at age 49. His legacy lives on in his art work represented in the Metropolitan Museum of Art, the National Gallery of Art, the Joslyn Art Museum in Omaha Nebraska, 57 works in other museums and galleries, and more in private collections. Many of John Woodhouse Audubon's work may be viewed on "Google Images". Not only did he have a talent for art, but he showed strong character in his leadership abilities.

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Who Was Clay Davis?
Norman Rozeff, January 2008

In his Journal recounting his experiences as a Forty-niner, John Woodhouse Audubon notes briefly his encounters with the dark, handsome (Henry) Clay Davis. Who was this gentleman and what was he doing in the sparsely populated Lower Rio Grande Valley in the year 1849?

Davis was a native Kentuckian, son of Theodore A. Davis and Ida Lund. He was undoubtedly named after Kentucky's famed statesman and orator, Henry Clay, said by John F. Kennedy to be one of the five greatest US Senators. Like Kentuckian before him he was adventurous and by the 1840s was in the fairly new Republic of Texas. In December 1842 he was to become involved in the ill-fated Mier Expedition.

Out of a party of 261 that crossed into Mexico on an ill-advised retaliatory mission, 30 Texans were killed or wounded in this south-of-the border skirmish before an offer to surrender to Mexican forces was accepted by the Texans. While Mexican losses were 600 killed and 200 wounded, the Texans simply had run out of supplies. Later, in attempting to escape, 176 Texans were captured, and 17 were executed in the infamous Black Bean Episode. It wasn't until September 16, 1844 that the remaining prisoners were released by Santa Anna. Clay Davis was among them.

Some years later Davis was to travel up river to purchase horses, perhaps for military use. Here he came to the Carnestolendas Ranch on the north side of the river about twenty miles south of Roma. The name is taken from a three week pre-Lent Carnival period where it is customary to "leave the meat" in the second weekly period. Blas Maria de la Garza Falcon, early explorer and colonizer under Jose de Escandon, established the ranch in 1752 and in a legal document of 1755 deposited in Camargo attested to running cattle on it at a location called Carnestolendas Hill.

In time the property would come into the hands of a descendent, Francisco Antonio de la Garza Martinez, who was to die in1821. Francisco was to have a son Teodoro de la Garza who would marry Maria Antonia Garza. One of their nine children was Maria Hilaria de la Garza. It was this young lady whom Clay Davis was to marry. Theodoro, grantee of the "El Alazan" tract in Hidalgo County, was to die in October 1843.

An historian from Camargo clarifies how the ranch came into Clay's hands. He relates that "it was a precondition to marriage that allowed Henry to lay claim to the land" and that "He and Hilaria would oversee the vast parcel of land on both sides of the river." It was however the north side on which Henry and Hilaria would concentrate and manage for many years until his death.

The marriage arrangement was not unusual for the period. "The property rights of women during the nineteen century were dependent on their marital status. Once women married their property rights were governed by English common law, which required that the property women took into marriage, or acquired subsequently, be legally absorbed by their husbands." A marital separation, regardless of who initiated it, would often leave a woman destitute, but property could be reclaimed if widowhood was the case. This structure began to change with passage of laws in England in 1882. In the US changes were piecemeal state by state from 1860 in New York. Southern states were among the last to incorporate women's property rights into their laws.

It was during the Mexican American War, 1846-1848, that steamboats began to ply the Rio Grande in order to re-supply military camps as far north as Laredo, when water levels allowed. The area near the ranch took on the name Davis Landing, probably because it was less of a tongue twister than the original name. It was also called Rancho Davis. Activities picked up sharply when, on 10/26/1848, two US Army companies under Bvt. Maj. Joseph H. LaMotte arrived to establish a post. Davis leased 33 acres along the river to the government. The military base was initially called The Post at Davis Landing. It was then named Camp Ringgold, in honor of the first US officer killed in the Mexican American War, this being at the Battle of Palo Alto. When Audubon visited there in March 1849 this is how he referred to it. It changed again to Ringgold Barracks, and in 1878 when the Davis heirs sold 350 acres total at the site to the US government it was renamed Fort Ringgold.

The establishment of the military base just to the south was to ensure the growth of the nascent community that Davis laid out in 1847. It was eventually to become the county seat of Starr County and be named Rio Grande City. Clay designed the city with broad, straight streets and a courthouse, somewhat resembling those in Austin, and it had a road directly to the river. A post office was authorized for it in 1849. Assisting him in this work was Captain Forbes N. Britton, a US Military Academy graduate, veteran of the Mexican American War, and responsible for relocating Texas Indian tribes. Britton would go on to a distinguished business and political career centered in Corpus Christi where his house, constructed in 1850, remains the oldest home in the city. In 1850 Britton had resigned from the army. In 1852 with others he formed a company to build a railroad from Corpus Christi to El Paso. The Texas Western Railroad Company laid no track. In 1857 he joined with Clay Davis, Brownsville founder Charles Stillman and Frederick Belden, the brother of another of its founders (Samuel Belden), and others to establish the Western Artesian Well Co. Britton, then a Texas legislator, introduced a bill granting rights to the company to drill wells along major roads in a vast area from the Nueces River to the Rio Grande, west to Laredo and San Antonio. Ostensibly these would "promote internal improvements." The bill apparently went nowhere.

Clay and Maria were to have six offspring—three daughters and three sons. These were Louisiana, Rosa, Magie N., George W., Theodore A. and Edward Downey. Edward Downey Davis, and his wife Lucilla Pena, were prolific in that they had nine children. Davis descendents continue to live in the Rio Grande City area and Mission.

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